We'll Be Back

Our table for two hours.

In Las Vegas it's easy for non-members to sport the appearance of being part of the one-percent club. (For example, as of this writing a Maserati may be rented for $675 per day.)

We were invited by friends to lunch at the Mansion, the MGM Grand Hotel's oasis for whales. We were the only patrons in the garden while we enjoyed a quiet leisurely lunch. There was no hint that the bustling Strip was only a block away. After lunch we strolled around the trees and admired the statuary.

Whales don't care that the duck breast entree
weighs less than a hamburger and costs $35.

On this trip we didn't set a foot in old Las Vegas. I missed having gaming palaces a short walk from each other, but I didn't miss the cigarette smoke or the grime. A vacation on the Strip is more expensive than downtown but costs less than Honolulu, New York, or LA....that is, if one is disciplined at the tables. This time I kept my head, or maybe just was lucky. We won't wait five years to return.

How the Young'Uns Do

Grilled scallops at the Sage

The Sage served the best meal we had during our long weekend in Las Vegas. We ordered small plates, a forced choice after three days of ceaseless consumption. Every dish was made of fresh ingredients and offered flavors and textures in interesting combinations. The only drawback was the noise. The Aria Hotel is oriented toward the younger crowd, which seems to gravitate toward venues that play high-energy music. We had to shout to make ourselves heard and decided to communicate how the young'uns do by texting each other. When in Rome....

A Bargain Indeed

Travelers from Hawaii have been known to head straight from McCarran Airport to the craps and blackjack tables for an all-night session, but those days are long since past for your humble observer. First, the desire has diminished; second, I just can't do it any more (oh, were we talking about gambling?)

On this week's trip to Las Vegas, our first in five years, we passed up the excesses of the all-you-can eat buffets and opted for less stomach-stretching fare. Each of the Strip hotels has at least one celebrity chef. On Thursday night we dined at Julian Serrano's at the Aria, and Friday at 9:30 we got in to Shawn McClain's Sage, also at the Aria. The ticket for two (without wine) ranged from $100 to $150, not unreasonable when compared with prices at top restaurants in San Francisco.

When one takes into account the money saved by not spending time in the casino, fine dining in Las Vegas is a bargain indeed.

Julian Serrano's mixed paella

Food Multiplier

Mango tuna salad - $10.95 at Prolific Oven

The startups that I work on don't pay a lot. Compensation consists of hope, dreams, and pieces of paper that may mean capital gains in the future.

The entrepreneurs I encounter today are different in one respect from those of yesteryear, however; their predecessors subsisted on Top Ramen. Latter-day Sergeys, Larrys, Steves, and Bills don't stint on the food budget.

A better diet improves morale and adds productive hours to the workday. And even if no pot of gold awaits at the end of the journey, everyone will have had a better time getting there. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

Camelot Fish and Chips, Pacifica

Despite living on the Peninsula for over 30 years, we had never ventured into Camelot Fish and Chips. Because an errand gave us an opportunity to kill a few hours in Pacifica, we stopped at the 44-year-old-establishment.

The walls were covered with emblems of England. We sat beneath the album cover of A Hard Day's Night and surveyed the rules of cricket. A figurine of Henry VIII stared haughtily from the opposite wall.

The fish and chips were excellent. Other members of our party favorited (hey, that's a verb now) the crab cakes and shrimp. The seafood and potatoes were deep fried to a crisp, moist perfection; the cook said the potatoes took the longest to cook and were the hardest to get right.

Half-way through the meal we were full. We didn't leave any leftovers, but our actions had nothing to do with the clean-your-plate admonishment from our parents. We really must get to the coast more often. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

Traffic Avoided

Beach next to the restaurant

Six months after our first visit, we drove to Half Moon Bay for lunch at Barbara's Fishtrap. We refused to be misdirected by Apple Maps, which kept insisting that the restaurant was east of Highway 1 next to a school; we switched to Google Maps, which placed our destination accurately along the beach.

At 1:30 p.m. on Friday the wait for a table was only ten minutes. (It's best to avoid Half Moon Bay on October weekends when the hordes descend on pumpkin farms; congestion peaks during the Pumpkin Festival on October 19-20.)

Calamari and chips

The fish and chips were as good as we remembered---hot, moist, and crunchy. The calamari was prepared in similar fashion and did not disappoint.

A fall afternoon, pleasant company and lunch by the seaside.  Life is good.

La Mar Cebicheria

Cebiche and causa

We hadn't seen our East Bay friend and his wife for years, and we were pleased at an unexpected invitation to have dinner in the City. We were especially pleased that we were to meet at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, where he had been working since 2007.

To jaded critics the five-year old San Francisco restaurant was just another example of traditional ethnic--in this case Peruvian--cooking that had been married with the techniques of California cuisine (fresh ingredients, everything prepared on-site, complex flavors, light on the dairy, etc.)

Shellfish on squid-ink pasta

Our friend explained that, until La Mar came along, Peruvian restaurants in the U.S. had been mom-and-pop operations who served dishes normally found in the home.

Business was a little iffy when the restaurant opened, but a company dinner party, the busy tables, and crowded bar on this Tuesday night showed that higher-end South American fare was catching on. We weren't the only ones impressed; Mayor Ed Lee, a man known to enjoy a good meal, was having dinner a few tables away. Our host arranged to have a few complimentary dishes sent over. Well, why not, it comes in handy to have a friend at City Hall, just as it is to have a friend who helps to run a restaurant. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

Side Street Inn, Kapahulu

Chinese chicken salad, ahi belly, pork chops, fried rice

For the past five years a co-worker had been urging us to dine at the Side Street Inn in Honolulu. When a relative extended an invitation, we jumped at the chance.

We went to the newer--and fancier--location on Kapahulu Avenue. There were a smattering of business diners and one company birthday party, but most customers were families. We sat down at 5:30, before the weekday crowds arrived.

The menu did not disappoint. Portions were generous, and the food was fresh. Two of the deep-fried offerings--the ahi belly and the pork chops--were a little bland for my taste but were easily spiced up with sauces and dips. Side Street Inn didn't ladle on the gravy like some other local establishments, and that was fine to those who are avoiding empty calories. However, don't be misled; Side Street Inn isn't for dieters. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

JJ Bistro and French Pastry

Lobster pasta---one of the entrées on
 that day's $29 prix fixe menu

After a steady diet of sushi, plate lunches, Korean, and Chinese food, a little Continental cuisine is just what the gourmand palate (most certainly not what the doctor) ordered.

JJ Bistro and French Pastry is a reasonably priced French restaurant in Kaimuki. The evening coincided with the expiration of a Groupon promotion; the restaurant was packed, and I had to park across the street. Nevertheless, we were seated within 15 minutes.

Three-appetizer plate

Bisque

We had to wait for the waitress to take our order, but after she did so the dishes arrived promptly. The salad greens were very fresh, and none of the appetizers or entrées--even those with cream--had a heavy touch.

Desserts are selected from the counter near the entrance (JJ has a thriving take-out business). We made our selection, which was taken home to be enjoyed the next day.

JJ Bistro has become one of our essential stops due to a family member's fondness for their pastry. O, the sacrifices we make for love. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

© 2013 Stephen Yuen

Dash Gastropub

My brother invited us to a pricey pupu bar, Dash Gastropub, near McCully and King. Because it was expensive and because he was paying, how could I say no?

Dash Gastropub is situated in what used to be a bank (neither of the majors, i.e.,  Bank of Hawaii or First Hawaiian). The owners haven't spent much re-doing the interior---the vault is clearly visible from the dining area---but that doesn't dissuade the crowd of mostly twenty-somethings from coming.

The sashimi is very fresh and uniquely presented, and the young and pretty cocktail waitresses made sure our glasses were filled. Dash is a little noisy but not overly so like some other places where one has to shout to make oneself heard. It's about two miles from Waikiki, and the small parking lot requires the use of a valet.

Next time I go to Dash I will walk there from my relatives', who live about a quarter-mile away. That way I don't have to count the beers. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

Shokudo Japanese Restaurant

On our first day in Honolulu we went to Shokudo Japanese Restaurant near the Ala Moana Shopping Center. We have frequently walked past Shokudo without venturing in; the lines out the door should have clued us to try it earlier.

Yelp-ers give Shokudo 3.5 out of 5 stars, dinging it for slow service. Having made reservations ahead of time, we waited only a few minutes.

Agedashi tofu

We ordered the agedashi ("lightly battered and fried") tofu. The soy sauce, calamari, green onion, and turnip garnish provided just the right amount of sweet saltiness to accentuate the custardy squares.

The assorted tempura looked like the familiar dish found in many Japanese restaurants, but the taste of Shokudo's version is something special. Shokudo infuses its tempura batter with ginger, and the texture--crisp and dry on the outside while being moist on the inside--was excellent; IMHO the tempura didn't need to be dipped in the dashi soy sauce bowl to enhance the flavor.

Unagi Bowl before the stirring

We had to order the unagi bowl because all the other tables were ordering it. The bowl is super-heated, the rice and unagi (eel) are laid in it, and the dish is promptly stirred by the waiter at the table. The rice is slightly charred---the way I like it---but will overcook if left in the bowl too long. The dish was well prepared but with one's eyes closed didn't seem much different from a decent piece of unagi sushi. Five stars for an ingenious presentation but only three stars for taste.

We weren't planning to have dessert, but the restaurant brought us two complimentary half(!)-servings of honey toast in honor of the two birthdays we were celebrating that day. The dessert didn't seem elaborate---fresh bread, vanilla ice cream, and honey--but was delicious, and we ate more of it than we thought we could.

On our next trip to the Islands, we'll be back. 4 stars out of 5, but we're conservative graders. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

Afternoon at Half Moon Bay

Fish and chips (Flickr, lfstewart)

We pointed the car west to Half Moon Bay. The first stop was Barbara's Fish Trap, a very popular seafood house in Princeton-by-the-Sea. Barbara's Fish Trap has the no-frills ambience of the fishmonger's restaurant. It doesn't accept credit cards, the fish is very fresh, and there's a wait for a table even at 2 p.m. on a weekday. The fellow in front of us said that he always comes to Barbara's when he visits from Riverside, 434 miles to the south.

Yes, the price of the saddle is $3,000.

We ordered the fish- or calamari-and-chips, and the food tasted as good as it looked. The hot, crunchy crust married with a moist, tender interior rivaled the best Japanese tempura. We shared an appetizer of clam chowder in a bread bowl. Dipping chunks of sourdough into a thick mixture of clams, spices, and celery (but no cream, the chowder is ideal for the lactose intolerant) is the quintessential experience on the Northern California coast. Four fish entrees, clam chowder, three soft drinks, tax, and a 16% tip cost an even $100.

Our next stop was the Half Moon Bay Feed and Fuel store on Main Street. Live chickens were on display in coops close to the sign "The Best Place to Pick Up Chicks."

On the front door was a Romney-Ryan sticker. Inside, scattered among the feed and livestock paraphernalia, were politically incorrect signs and cards. A moosehead was mounted over the front door. The sensibility of the store in these parts is, to say the least, unique.

Prices, except for a few outliers like a $3,000 "show saddle," compared very favorably to those in the closer-in suburbs. We picked up some supplies for our guinea pigs. A large bag of grass was $5, a fraction of the cost online or at PetSmart. When we complained to the owner that alfalfa was mixed in with the grass (calcium in alfalfa can cause bladder stones in small animals), she promptly instructed the workers to fill a new bag from the pristine bales outside.

Half Moon Bay Feed and Fuel is on historic Main Street.

Our final stop was the New Leaf Community Market, an organic-food chain that is slowly expanding into the Bay Area, though it's unlikely that we'll have one on the Peninsula any time soon. The prices were equal to or less (in some cases much less) than Whole Foods, so we bought three shopping bags (recyclable, of course) full of groceries.

I was in Half Moon Bay just over a year ago for a charity function. We won't wait as long for our next visit. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

Vegans, Avert Your Eyes

Top to bottom: Broccolini fried in lard, pork chops,
rib-eye steak, lamb chops, goat, tri-tip, Italian sausage

The Belcampo Meat Company is "a farm, a processing plant, a butcher shop, and a restaurant [that manages] the entire production chain to bring you delicious, safe, healthy, organic, and humane meat."

We visited the butcher shop in Larkspur and gawked at the prices--$10 to $20 a pound--of the various meats on display. Raising animals without the use of hormones and enriched feed is apparently a costly undertaking.

After getting over the sticker shock, we sat down to dinner at the adjacent restaurant and ordered the Meat Board for $85. In for a pound (or pounds), as the saying goes.

The chops and roasts were prepared skillfully. The beef centers were medium rare, while the other meats were cooked thoroughly without being dry. None of the cuts had thick marbling, but all were tender. Aging and light seasoning brought out complex flavors; a glass of house pinot complemented the dishes perfectly.

Our party of four had no trouble finishing the entire spread, which included bread and lard(!) in place of butter. When one is on vacation--even a stay-cation--calories and cholesterol don't count. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

Han Sung BBQ, Santa Clara

Hot coals are lowered a foot from diners' plates.

It was our first time at the Han Sung BBQ, and it was a good thing that we brought our appetites. (It was also a good thing that we went on a Sunday, when Lenten strictures against indulgence are suspended.)

Korean restaurants were serving small plates of kim chi and seasoned vegetables long before "small plates" became fashionable in other cuisines. We sampled everything, including sauces of uncertain provenance. (One is always taking a chance with unfamiliar condiments, which is why one should have lots of beer close by to put out the fire.)

Speaking of fire, Han Sung BBQ uses coals, not the propane or natural gas found in other grill-it-yourself restaurants. It makes for a more spectacular presentation when the flaming coals are lowered into the well; the heat is less intense than with gas, and we had to wait a bit longer for the meat to cook. The chicken, beef, and pork had a pleasant smokey flavor.

The total tab, including drinks, tax, and tip, was a reasonable $30 per person. We'll be back. © 2013 Stephen Yuen

Plebeian Appetites

"Blues Brothers" at Universal Studios

During our brief trip south we spent a day at Universal Studios. We could have gone to the Getty Museum--and I will go some day--but this vacation was for entertainment, not education. Speaking of art, the homage to the Blues Brothers was well worth 20 minutes of standing (seats were sparse). Young fans who were obviously familiar with the tunes were dancing in the aisles. Belushi lives.

Plane crash set from War of the Worlds

Being able to spare only a few hours, we took in the studio tour, the new Transformers ride, and the trained animal ("Animal Actors") show. The Transformers flight-simulator experience was a little too much for this aging boomer. Being tossed and turned while watching giant 3-D figures rapidly moving across the screen was literally a dizzying experience. A tech marvel indeed, but I'll take a real roller coaster, please.

Pork chop with berry sauce

Chased indoors by the Los Angeles heat and smog, we had a leisurely dinner at the hotel restaurant. Familiar dishes were prepared with flair--no multi-continental fusion cuisine here--and portions were generous. Our summer-long battle to reduce sugar intake suffered another setback when the dessert platter came. BTW, it's only a myth that calories don't count when one is on holiday. Or perhaps there's another explanation why my pants have mysteriously shrunk.

Final score Friday night: Giants 5, Braves 3

I-5 was crowded with trucks, and the return trip was exhausting. But there was still time (and energy) to head up to AT&T Park that evening. The Giants came back to beat the Braves and keep the Dodgers at bay for another day. Now that the new Dodgers management is throwing money around like a drunken sailor, the Giants (and every other team in the National League West) will struggle for years to keep up with the big money boys down South. I didn't care much before, but now...Beat LA! © 2012 Stephen Yuen